Smith Island is a marshy mass of land off the coast of Crisfield, Maryland. The setting of the island is like something from classical literature in the sense that Victorian virtues clash with modern sentiments. The island is preserved in time, and visitors might find that they are transported back to the distant past -- a simpler and more dignified time when America was young and the settlers were romantic in their ideals of toiling the land, worshipping God, and living freely.
What Is Smith Island?
Smith Island was occupied by English settlers in the 1600s. The inhabitants were naturally isolated by the freezing waters that surround the island. As a result, the culture that emerged was distinctly self-governing, self-reliant, and socially cohesive. Neighbors would necessarily know one another, and in general, the residents of Smith Island were part of one large community.
In its heyday, the island housed around 1,000 people. Over the next 400 years or so, the population has shrunk down to below 50 residents. As the tenets of modernity crept in, Smith Islanders, illusioned with the outside world and its worldly boons, slowly began to leave, hoping to marry outside the community and find opportunities for pleasure that could not be found on the tiny island. The people who are left on the island are the stronghold of settler civilization, carrying with them the torch of sacred values that demand a simple and modest life.
The remaining residents of Smith Island have preserved an old dialect of English that cannot be found elsewhere -- a phenomenon that may be of interest to philologists and linguists who find themselves in the region. In addition to the near-extinct dialect, Smith Islanders have preserved recipes from the olden days, the most famous of which is the Smith Island Cake -- a crispy, multilayered dessert that has become a staple of Maryland.
In general, visitors will discover that an old, dignified, and autonomous way of life has persevered on the island. In fact, of the remaining residents, the most common surnames are 'Evans' and 'Tyler', names that can be traced back to the first families who settled Smith Island.
The primary source of livelihood on the island is crabbing, oyster dredging, fishing, and hunting.
How To Get To Smith Island?
There are no roads linking Smith Island to the mainland, so the only way to get there and back is by boat. Luckily, since most tourists don't own their own boats, there is a ferry service that links the island to Crisfield.
Indeed, while most tourists do not own their own boats, the residents of Smith Island most certainly do. It is natural that they would need a way on and off the island to transport goods or seek shelter in the event of an emergency.
The ferries run in accordance with the weather, and on most days only one round trip is made to the island and back. For visitors, it costs a hefty $40 per person for a round trip, and bookings must be made in advance.
There are three ferry services. Two of them run all year round and are primarily freight boats for transporting mail and supplies, while the third is a seasonal passenger ferry. Visitors can find out more on the Smith Island website.
- Departure Point: Somers Cove Marina
- Address: 715 Broadway, Crisfield, MD 21817, United States
- Hours: Usually departing at 12:30 PM, return upon request
- Price: $20 per person, each way
What To Do On Smith Island?
The ferries do not transport cars, so visitors will have to do without them. However, once on the island, it is possible to hire bicycles and golf carts, which make it remarkably easier to get around.
In terms of what there is to do, Smith Island is best experienced somewhat passively. Take in the vintage architecture of the houses, look out for birds like herons and ospreys, and explore the marshlands. Visitors can dine at one of the local restaurants or visit the Cavalry Church, where they may very well find the island's heart and soul. A great seafood restaurant on the northern end of the island is the Bayside Inn, which is one of the two restaurants on the island.
- Restaurant: Bayside Inn Restaurant
- Address: 4065 Smith Island Rd, Ewell, MD 21824, United States
- Hours: 11 AM - 6 PM
- Cuisine: Seafood
- Price: $
Visitors can also patron the only market on the island, Drumpoint Market, where the day's catches are sold.