It was once said of the cheese pumpkin that it was the best - and really, only - choice for pumpkin pie. This bold statement was uttered in the 1855 issue of the Michigan Farmer, according to Atlas Obscura, and thus began the reign of the cheese pumpkin: A sweeter, smaller, meatier version of the bright orange pumpkins we all know and love. But, this pumpkin has the ability to transform a pumpkin pie like no other, with hints of gourd-like goodness that lend themselves well to desserts.
When it comes to pumpkin pie, not every pumpkin will do the job adequately. Canned pumpkin is always a solid bet but with canned anything, the risk is that each and every pie will taste just like the others on the Thanksgiving or holiday table. Pumpkin pie, from scratch, should be as unique as the pumpkin that's picked for it - it should have a background in savory, squash-like flavor all while adding a sweetness that's transformative enough to leave the diner wanting even more than their one humble slice. When it comes to pie science, not every gourd is created equally and the cheese pumpkin, at one point in time, was the one and only... and it's finally making a comeback, thanks to the farmers who care enough to help it along.
Where Does It Come From?
The cheese pumpkin was once grown in the state of New York, with many of them local to Long Island. As time went on, they became known as the Long Island cheese pumpkins, with their specific shape and muted orange coloring resembling that of a wheel of cheese, thus giving them their unique name. While they have nothing to do with actual cheese, they are known still to this day for being the best option for pumpkin pie, although they've been somewhat replaced with gourds such as sugar pumpkins or simply just canned pumpkin.
Nearly a century after cheese pumpkins were declared the queens of pie, they slowly began disappearing from Long Island farms. Quickly, they were replaced Midwestern pumpkins that are more familiar to many, and thus the cheese pumpkins were all but forgotten to new generations of pie-bakers. As the more orange and more perfectly-round pumpkins began to take over places such as social media and Pinterest in terms of aesthetics and carve-ability, only a small group was left with the memory of the pumpkins that once were.
The Return Of The Cheese Pumpkin
By the 1970s, the cheese pumpkin's name was once again brought up in conversations. Ken Ettlinger, a native Long Islander, began saving the seeds of whatever cheese pumpkins were left, with the intention to grow them once again. He would then collaborate with other farmers in order to determine how to grow the pumpkins en mass or at least try to. Together, they've created the Long Island Cheese Pumpkin Project, which is now a group of individuals looking to protect and preserve the agriculture of the cheese pumpkin. Thanks to them, its legacy is once again getting a second life so that generations to come can learn and appreciate what a valued produce item this pumpkin actually is.'
It hasn't necessarily become a staple at farmer's markets and at fall festivals but it has gained its reputation back. Now, the cheese pumpkin can be found a little easier these days than it was 40 or 50 years prior. It could be called the pumpkin that lived - adequately living up to its seasonal, autumn-timed harvest - due to the fact that it was almost completely wiped off the map before a group of devoted individuals brought it back to life.
The beautiful thing about the cheese pumpkin is that its culinary use far extends that of pie. While it is the perfect candidate and truly the only ideal gourd for the job, it can also be stewed, baked, mashed, fried, or even fermented. Its meaty interior lends itself well to a whole variety of cooking methods, all of which make this pumpkin a must-have in anyone's autumn arsenal. Additionally, this pumpkin was once the obvious choice of colonial beer-brewers, as it has such a great reputation for cooking down and lending extraordinary flavor quite unlike any other. Its unique boost in sweetness is a great additive to beers and even today, it's the obvious choice for many brewers, as opposed to its larger, less bold cousin. From European colonialist days until today, this pumpkin has lived to see another day and will hopefully continue to work its way into becoming a household staple during the pumpkin pie season.