San Francisco in the late 1800s was an optimistic time, and in hindsight, the city was in the middle of a golden age. Before the Great Depression and World Wars had turned the general public cynical, people were satisfied with simple pleasures and valued the company of strangers. The former mayor of San Francisco, Adolph Sutro, was poised to cater to the people's mood and seemed to personify the greatest values of Old West citizenry and entrepreneurship.A product of this early golden age was none other than San Francisco's Sutro Baths - a historic site home to California's 'ruins.'

The Early History Of The San Francisco Sutro Baths

Adolph Sutro made his fortune in the silver mining industry of Nevada. The Comstock Lode, a silver mine in Nevada, regularly experienced flooding. Sutro solved the problem by building a tunnel system to drain the water from the mine. This invention, called the Sutro Tunnel, was highly coveted by miners, so much so, that they would pay $10,000 ($300,000 adjusted for inflation) to rent it for a day. Sutro filled his pockets and left Nevada for San Francisco, where his heart truly lay.

A well-known public figure, member of the local aristocracy, and philanthropist, Adolph Sutro was loved by San Francisco, a love that he wholehearted returned. Sutro was known to dig deep into his pockets to pamper the city's residents. One of his most beloved and strangest gifts to the public was the Sutro Baths.

The Sutro Baths were built away from the city, on Ocean Beach. The facility, which was surrounded by sand dunes, overlooked the ocean, facing west. The massive structure was housed by a glass roof that would let the sunlight in, but not the cold, turning most days into warm and sunny beach days.

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Sutro used his knowledge of the Sutro Tunnel to design the baths. He built a series of underground tunnels to channel the ocean's currents, feeding the saltwater into seven swimming pools. Within the glasshouse, the water was heated up to 80F (27 C), making the pools accessible all year round. The pools were fitted with diving boards, waterslides, swings, trampolines, and trapezes.

Surrounding the pools, Sutro had the space filled with oddities that he had collected on his worldly travels. Visitors could gawk at the esoteric and foreign objects and art much like they would in a museum.

Due to the relative remoteness of Sutro Baths, Adolph Sutro had a tram system built, allowing visitors the opportunity to commute from the deepest depths of the city. Given that most visitors came long distances to patron the Baths, Sutro had several restaurants open in the facility, turning the Sutro Baths into a sort of pleasure park (in the old sense of the word) where people could spend an entire day.

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Adolph Sutro had a reputation for being a populist, and while this is debated, there is no doubt that the Sutro Baths operated out of a love for the public. The entrance fee was 5 cents, while the fee for using the pool was 25 cents. The pool fee included a swimsuit and towel. In fact, Sutro Baths did not permit people to bring their own swimsuits, insisting that everyone wear the standardized suits provided. This served two purposes, firstly it ensured that people would be dressed appropriately, and secondly, it created a sense of immersion and camaraderie among the visitors.

Poor Adolph Sutro died before the turn of the century and his estate was bitterly fought over by his ex-wife and children. Lacking Sutro's benevolence, the new managers of the Baths could not tolerate the absence of meaningful profit and converted the Sutro Baths into an ice-skating ring, charging a higher entrance fee in the process.

The Progression Of The Sutro Baths

The First World War came and went, leaving Americans traumatized and weary of frivolity. The Great Depression followed, further dampening spirits. There was an oppressing atmosphere of austerity. People stopped indulging in recreation with the same zeal that they did during Adolph Sutro's life, and the Sutro Baths were officially defunct.

In the mid-50s, a sky tram was built that connected Adolph Sutro's mansion with the mainland. The tram offered breathtaking views, as well as an easy way to get to the Baths. However, due to the rough seas, unceasing winds, and high maintenance costs, the sky tram was shut down after ten years of operation.

The abandoned Sutro Baths were bought by real estate developers. The new owners began demolishing much of the structure. Before they could complete razing the Baths, a great fire broke out that burned everything to the ground. The real estate developers took their insurance money and stepped away from the project.

Quite shockingly, the Sutro Baths fire was ruled as arson. The perpetrator was never found, leading to speculation about the motivations for such an action. Perhaps the location of the Baths was deemed too remote to be financially profitable and the owners set it on fire for the insurance payout. Or perhaps it was a descendant of Sutro who did not want the down-to-earth site of amusement and ocean views to become a gentrified colony for private enjoyment. Whatever the motivations of the arsonist, the remains of the Sutro Baths have been preserved.

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Today, people can visit the ruins for free. There is a large parking lot just above the site, and a tram station about a half-mile away. At the site of Sutro Baths, the dig-outs of the seven pools are still there, along with some of the surrounding walls. There are three main things to do there, apart from exploring the ruins.

  • First, since the Baths are west-facing, the area is widely considered as one of the best sunsets spots in San Francisco, rated higher than the Golden Gate Bridge.
  • Second, there are rock formations in the shallow waters. One of the formations, by some miracle of nature, is shaped like a heart, through which the sunset permeates at the right angle and time of the day. It is a popular site for engagements and weddings.
  • Third, several coastal hiking trails begin from the parking lot above Sutra Baths.

Back in the day, to compensate for the remote location, the Baths offered a variety of activities. Today, even though the Sutro Baths lay in ruins, there are still a number of compelling activities on offer to make the trip worth it.

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