Oxford is a small city in Lafayette County, Mississippi with a rich history and charming locale. While there are lots of attractions to see, Oxford is best experienced passively by soaking in the vibe. This particular vibe comes from the town's art scene, history, and harmony with nature. It has inspired and attracted numerous artists from throughout the ages and continues to do so today. Oxford is a perfect vacation destination and makes for a great literary pilgrimage.
A Literary History Of Oxford, MS
With merely a few thousand sparsely separated homes, the town is a perfect setting for Southern Gothic literature. No one knew this better than William Faulkner, the noble prize-winning author, and American gem. Faulkner's family is intimately tied to the city of Oxford, and the town heavily influenced all of his work.
John Faulkner was a wealthy industrialist. He owned one of the biggest railway companies that connected the American South with Chicago. His son, Murry, worked at his father's company and hoped to one day inherit the railway business. Murry married Maud, and the two of them had a child, William, who would go on to become of the greatest literary figures in history.
Murry's wealthy upbringing made him soft, so when John the Patriarch was set to retire, he opted to sell the railway, deeming his son unfit to manage the company. This prompted Murry, Maud, and young William to leave town in search of work. John Faulkner owned several businesses in Oxford, Mississippi, so it was natural that they would move there next. William Faulkner spent the rest of his life in and out of Oxford. The town gave him the best of both worlds, access to the great outdoors and exposure to high culture.
He studied at the University of Mississippi, fondly referred to as Ole Miss by locals and students. Despite dropping out, he managed to land a job as the university postmaster. It was in the campus powerhouse where Faulkner wrote As I Lay Dying, one of his early works that gained him wide recognition.
What To See In Oxford, MS
Rowan Oak
As a wealthy and established author, William Faulkner maintained his home base in Oxford, living in the now-famous Rowan Oak house, which was purchased by Ole Miss after his death. The house has been preserved to maintain its original state and is open to the public. Visitors can still see Faulkner's scribblings on the wall. Fans of literature will enjoy reading the walls of his small study, where the entire outline of his novel, A Fable, was mapped out in the 1950s.
The Oldest Store In The South
Elsewhere in Oxford, the oldest documented store in the entire South still stands. J.E. Neilson Co. was opened in 1839, right in the center of town on Oxford Square. It is one of the few stores to have survived the burning of Oxford during the Civil War. The shop has archived a letter from William Faulkner, who was embroiled in a decades-long feud with the store over some unpaid debts.
The Biggest Theatre In Town
The Lyric Theater is one of the most significant attractions in Oxford. Located near the courthouse square, it is the largest music venue in Oxford, boasting a seating capacity of 1,200. This is an impressive feat considering that only 20,000 people are living in and around the town. Like most historically and culturally significant buildings, the theatre was built in the late 1800s.
The structure had many roles throughout its lifetime. At one point, it was a horse stable owned by the Faulkner family. After that, in the 1920s, it was Oxford's first motion picture theater. When his novel, Intruder in the Dust, was adapted for the big screen in 1949, Faulkner walked from Rowan Oak to the site of his childhood horse stable to watch the world premiere of the movie - a sound and color version of the story set in Oxford, that he also wrote in Oxford.
Today, the Lyric Theatre mostly hosts live performances, both musical and theatrical. The colorful history of the building's usage is reflected in the decor and atmosphere inside. It's interesting to attend a concert knowing that, once upon a time, a wealthy family's horses lived on the same stage where T-Pain and the Goo Goo Dolls are performing.
Greenery And Nature In Oxford, MS
Oxford has a proven history of being an ideal town for writers. It has a blend of rustic recreation, modern comforts, and cultural infrastructure. For example, there's a full-fledged 18-hole golf course in Oxford, which is a great place to relax and reflect. The town is one of the most bike-friendly communities in the region, full of bike paths and easy roads to cruise down.
Sardis Lake is another great place to visit. Residents can be found on the water and banks, lounging in the sun with a beer in one hand and a fishing rod in the other. The waters are teeming with all sorts of life, such as bass, catfish, and crappies. In fact, Northern Mississippi is the crappie capital of the world, so even novice fishermen are bound to catch something.
The Cultural Significance Of Oxford, MS
It's no wonder that Oxford is such an inspiration and home to so many artists. Bob Dylan's Oxford Town is a song about the city, specifically dealing with the desegregation of Ole Miss in the 60s. The transition caused riots that escalated to the point that President Kennedy had to send in the National Guard. Dylan later performed a concert at the Tad Smith Coliseum, which is a part of the Ole Miss campus.
Authors who have lived in and taken inspiration from Oxford include the great John Grisham, Larry Brown, Willie Morris, and Barry Hannah, and True Blood writer Chris Offutt.
Contemporary musicians tend to recognize the artistic appeal of living in Oxford. Former guitarist for The Smiths, and current member of Modest Mouse, Johnny Marr, owns a house in town. His band, as well as other big names, regularly record their studio albums in the Sweet Tea Recording Studio, whose owner has won a Grammy for his contribution to the arts.
Oxford, Mississippi is not the same as the elite Oxford in England, but it has a lot to offer that cannot be found elsewhere. And while Ole Miss is no Oxford University, it's certainly rich with its own South Gothic charm and prestige.